Audi ABZ to ABH Trigger Conversion

For the exactly no one else who wants to run an ABZ on ABH management. These tools can be used to add the old-school two-sensor crank trigger to the newer ABZ block that didn't have them cause they switched to 60-2 with the sensor mounted on the transmission. Suggested Supplies: ============= * ABZ Engine you have no regard for (32v 4.2L from pre-Facelift D2) * 10-bolt flywheel with 136 teeth and a timing pin (for old-school Audi trigger) * Sawzall/Hacksaw * Die Grinder (doable without if you're patient) * Drill * 5mm drill bit * M6x1.0 tap * File Order of Operations: ============== 1. Trigger Frame -------------------- This tool bolts up to a stock ABZ to start the modification. It uses 2 locating dowels to press into the block's bellhousing pattern, and lines up to 3 bolt holes, so you can verify the print is accurate. Use this as a guide to hog out all the material within the frame. Note: before this stage, ideally, you'd fill in the bracing for the lower trigger mount hole. I didn't have aluminum welding capability at the time, so I made do without it. 2. Trigger Locator Stage 1 ------ You can use this tool to determine if you're done with Step 1. It should fit into the space you've just cleared out. Once it does, bolt it to the block, and use a 5mm drill bit through the guide holes to drill the pilots for the bolt holes. Finally, use the "P" shape as a guide for the sensor relief inwards towards the the crank 3. Trigger Locator Stage 2 -------- This is the final check to see if you've cleared out all the material guided in step 2. Make any necessary adjustments, then bolt the tool into place. The holes in this tool are just slightly undersized so that it will firmly, but freely hold the tap. You can use this as a guide to keep an M6x1.0 tap straight and tap the holes you previously drilled. Boom! The stock PT/ABH crank trigger should bolt up and run the engine! Definitely check to make sure the clearance to the flywheel is in spec and shim if necessary, but my experience worked using these tools right out of the box. I'm still writing it, but see my writeup for the other supporting mods needed to drop an ABZ into a D11 using ABH management here. (still not posted 4/29/21) Note: Since I didn't fill the gap for the the lower hole, I originally just left the gap and it worked, but for added stability, I added a helicoil protruding from the aluminum, then immersed it in JB weld to increased the mounting surface. Not ideal, but I'm confident it'll continue to work indefinitely. If I have the motor out again, I'll fill it in with my TIG.